https://youtu.be/o_94zHi0UQc?si=Bk3FQ8Rw4aOiMMEI

Sunday I hit it early again before Church, buoys were solid with the nearshore buoy over 6ft at 11 sec East, and the 20 mile offshore buoy was 12.5ft at 11 sec NE, so i'd call it a solid chest / shoulder high or so, a few head high sets, and yeah the wind all over it from the NE but the Jetty did it's job and made it really fun. I did a no look send and ran from the parking lot to the water with my 6.0, and was first in, got some BOMBS, then a friend and a few familiar faces joined me and we all were stoking out of our gills! So damn fun, wish I could have stayed longer.

This morning, same time, same place, the nearshore buoy was 6.2ft at 10 sec East, and the offshore buoy was at about 14ft at 11-13 sec ENE, so a more direct angle, not much Cape shadowing, so I would call it a SOLID and consistent chest - head, with some overhead sets, and was probably the best early for the incoming high tide. I was first in the water again, rode the 6.0 again, and I got into many, many bombs, both left and right.

There was a right that I got early in the session that was probably the biggest wave I have caught at this spot before, if not the biggest, it's up there for sure, I didn't really have time to pull out my measuring stick haha, but as I dropped in, made my backside bottom turn, I had to look UP over my shoulder to see the lip of this monster, and it just kept growing as I went down the line, I was up in the guts of this thing, and I had the peak right on my heels chomping at me, but I made it unscathed and let out the biggest YEW I could muster, I was on cloud 9 for the rest of the session, and I couldn't contain myself I had to ask the rando who was paddling out right when I made the drop into this thing if he saw that, and he did, I didn't need reassurance but I felt like I had a witness hahaha (can I get one? 😎) Hallelujah!

After that wave I got a meaty left, close in size, but maybe a foot smaller, but it was super fast, punchy and ran a long distance and let me really go to work on it, not just a race but playground too, my goodness that was a good one. So many I could go on all day, but those two really stand out. I stayed out about 90+ minutes, my shoulder was starting to feel it and the paddle was getting tougher and the crowd was getting thicker and the conditions were not quite as good early so I eventually took a good one to the beach and went home with a permagrin. YEWWWS!

More on tap tomorrow, stay tuned!