Today was even more fun than yesterday.  Wind was swirlin around to full offshore from time to time.  Got really clean with definite quickie barrell opportunities.  It was hard to see out there between the clouds and rain makin the sky and water a big gray blur.  I know I'm a speck, but here's today's attempt at pics.  It was fun as shit out there.  I oughta sleep good tonight.  😏

Same wave 2 shots.  Right before, then during.  

2nd one.  I hadda zoom way in, so sorry for the Nat Geo grade images.  It's really been a fun week.  ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙

The 1st sandbar inside the rocks is really set up nice lately.  Take off in stomach deep water, head back out afterwards in neck deep for a fair distance til it gets shallow again.  There was a pretty good shorebreak too, but I stayed on the sandbar.  You probably coulda brung your shortiest shred rocket and had some fun inside where I was.  Or took the barge outdide for some chill glidin.  Whatever fries yer chikin.  😎🤙

I haven't checked on any NFL scores yet.  I hope y'all's teams did ok. 🤞

Day 6.

Another fun mornin out there.  Basically same as yesterday, but a hair smaller with less wind.  Lulls were long at times, but waves eventually DID show up.  I canceled that speech at the United Nations, so had some free time.  It all worked out.  My last wave was a dive into the shorepound.  During that multi rotation bounce offa the bottom, thought I mighta scuffed out a hole in the 3/2.  Like Forrest says, in the But-TOX.  Much to my glee, the suite was unscathed.  Body armor.  

Reckon I'll just see how long this continues.  🤞🙏  Surf every day so far in Rocktober.  ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙

The udder day we were talkin about pier shottin.  I was walkin on the beach really close to Murdoch's a few days ago.  Lookin down at the sand.  I hear this kid just bust out hollerin and screamin.  Look over under there and 10 year old dude with a boogie is up in the pilings.  Walkin outa there grabbin his thighs in obvious pain.  I couldn't find parents at first.   I talk to him a sec as he heads for his beach towel to sit.  Front of both thighs were pretty strawberried up.  So, he sits down.  At first I'm like, ok, he's gonna be fine, calm down etc.  Then he just starts fuckin HOLLERIN and grabbin his legs.  Everyone is like starin and sayin somebody DO somethin.   I look at alla their faces... walk over to little bro who's just goin OFF.  At first he won't let me see his legs.  Dude, I gotta see if you're ok.  He finally shows me.  Nothin like stitches needed, but he's scuffed up big time.  That shit hurts.  Just then, the routine Beach Patrol truck dudes drive out from under Murdoch's.   Perfect timin.  I splained, told the kid these dudes will take care of you, it's ok bro, etc.  I went back to walkin around but stayed nearby.  They cleaned him up, etc.  Dad finally showed up and I told him what happened to Jr.  Truck drove up like 2 minutes after the kid showed me his injuries. 

Don't shoot Murdoch's.  🚫

I think we still maybe got a little surf.  😎🤙

Yeah, don't shoot the pier. Like I said, 75 feet. Especially for a kid or anyone on a boogie. But, in true "kid" fashion, that one learned the hard way, which is how most of us did. You can tell me not to shoot the pier 100 time. I am going to shoot the pier. Until I slam into the pilings and end up with major injuries.... Then, it's Dad saying: "I told ya so".... Just like the other 200 things I have told you NOT TO DO, but you insist anyway. 

Day 7.  Felt the same as yesterday.  Maybe longer lulls.  You coulda easily sat 10min for a spot check and decided it was flat.  Knee plus fairly clean.   Again.   Fun as shit.   Again.   I'm tired but happy.   Again.   Time for ½ price Domino's pizza pie since they just emailed me a special.   🍕  Rocktober continues. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙

YO Yo, IBC. Looking like your stretch of coast should be somewhat safe from the hurricane. Looks like landfall directly east of New Orleans. So, if the system is large enough, you should experience those outer bands hitting offshore as it approaches the coast about a day out, and into landfall. So, you could score for a solid 24-48 hours with clean conditions and the storm a couple hundred miles away... Win win. 

Took a break today.  There's still some pretty messy lookin maybe knee high.  

No more lifeguard towers.  Pretty empty beach today.  

I think I can

I think I can

I think I can  😎

I know I'm not gonna go out there for 8hrs.  Or twice.  So, it's wait for the best 3hr window and go for it.  I usually go before it gets super clean, because it's stronger, but clean enough.  Get plenty of waves, but not the late late gorgeous ones.  Patience, grasshopper...  

Wax on, wax off Daniel Son. The time is now grasshopper. The time is ALWAYS now. 

It's gettin gnarly out there.  I don't wanna jinx me, so I might not say much more til I go out later after things sort out a little more. Def bringin bring the camera out for historical purposes.  Haha

https://youtube.com/shorts/2pPnztjaZro?is=jWoqyvA0m2TM348q

I just wanna guess the best 3hrs between now and dark around 6:30.  Haha

Buoy hit 9sec around an hour ago.  Lotta people on the beach for October.  It's lively today.  I ain't gonna wait much longer.   Back later after hopefully scorin a pic or 2.  🤞😎

Just checked the cams. Still looking fun. Little more organized now.... Have fun bruh. 

That was the most energy I felt in the ocean in a LONG time.  Holy shit, the tide was high. Water at the bottom of the stairs and no beach.  I never really got out on the sandbar.  Deep deep deep.  Found quite a few fun ones in the shorebreak.  Current was almost scary.  I've mentioned our Balinese rip before.  Out in the open, not by the rocks or a pier.  It switches on and off.  There were times it cranked up so hard my feet were slidin across the bottom.  Straight out to sea.  I actually was swimmin and jumpin back toward shore several times.  I saw a whole lotta waves explodin 20 yds out past where I wanted to go.  Caught enough in the shore pound to be worth it.  I'm tired AF.  Everything out there was turned way up stronger than normal.   I was countin 10sec periods pretty often.   Saw a lotta this.   ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙

One more from today.  Lotta water movin around out there.  Definitely not a pond. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/Cp2eIxDl1_k?is=LeHOF8AIbHPhlv8x

It's been a long time since I was in that kinda water.  I know I didn't really get pictures that showed how it looked.   Oh, well.   🙄

You could literally feel the sea level rise and fall like a foot as sets came and went.  Go walkin out during a lull... waves start comin in... water goes from chest deep to overhead.  Soon as you unhooked from the ocean bottom, it was DRIFT ON.  As I mentioned before, the drift was straight out to sea at times.  Swim back in to where I could touch bottom.  I didn't see people outside of me.  There's usually at least ONE out there.  Not yesterday.  Lotta curious people in the shallows, but nobody outside.  Lifeguard trucks couldn't drive down the beach.  Water comin up to the stairs.  

I'll look today to see if anyone ELSE managed to get decent pics.  🤷‍♂️

I think the biggest difference with yesterday's surf was... I hadda FORCEFULLY extract myself from a lotta waves after the whitewater bouncin took over.  Usually it's not difficult to exit. Just roll over on my back, etc.  That stuff yesterday was like... you're comin with ME whether you LIKE IT,  or NOT.  This was more like get me OUTA HERE so I don't have to start all the way over from the beach.  ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙

I think the best way to sum up yesterday was... no rest breaks.  🤪🤣

There wasn't anywhere out there where you could rest.  Just tryna stay in one spot was work.   After 2½ hrs I was pretty empty.   Slept like a log.  😴🤣