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DawnPatrol321
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[#59]

Jordy Smith has been on a role this past year or so, dude is shredding!


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(@zach619)
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Jordy is unreal. From a style perspective, he is one of my all time favorite pros. And when he is off hunting waves like this for videos, it's all time. He is a natural tube hunter and has about everything else in his bag too... Sick!


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Here is some cool perspective footage from my all time favorite beach break. This spot is always packed, even when it's huge and it's a mix of local, old man legends, pros, and average joes. So the crowds and carnage are unreal. On the first wave filmed, a dude gets straight run over by a 7'6" mini gun.... 

Anyway, this is cool drone perspective. A lot of videos of Blacks only show you the front facing, but I like this angle, where you can see the DEEP canyon waves all pour in from South Peak, the the North Peak.... And this will put some good perspective on what it feels like, when you paddle over a set wave, just to have your butthole pucker up when you see a south canyon set rolling in that is going to break 50 yards past you, then you try and calm down and take your beating. Water starts getting DEEP out that far when it's pumping. I haven't had my worst hold downs there, but I have had a couple of the longest. Probably 20 seconds, but feels like minutes. 


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DawnPatrol321
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I want to surf Alaska so bad, one day.

 


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Yeah man. That place look wild and beautiful. WAY on the cold side, but for those buoys up in the NE and what not, I look at it this way: The water temps bottom out in Alaska about the same as they do in the NE (33ish f) and the summer max is 45 degrees, so for guys that are used to those temps from what, January - March or whatever, it shouldn't be TOO too crazy. But damn, with wind and air temps being damn near zero, that is a whole different ball game. 


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DawnPatrol321
Posts: 378
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For sure, it'd have to drop a fortune gearing up for a trip like that lol


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DawnPatrol321
Posts: 378
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Good waves, good surfing, good tunes, no filler BS, just how I like my surf films. Enjoy!

MERGE | A Billabong Team Surf Film | Billabong |


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DawnPatrol321
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Mason is always fun to watch surf.

Mason Ho Surfing Mexico On A Puddle Jumper


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DawnPatrol321
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Clay Marzo continues to be one of my favorite surfers. Dude is gnarly, and does his own thing, I like that, he doesn't try to fit into the typical "pro surfer" mold. He's a f'ing wave savant with next level creativity with his lines and his manuevers. Incredible. One thing I enjoyed about this video, and others he has done, is he shows you the beatings, the failed take offs, the blown waves, and then shows the glory, the makes, mixed in, giving you the viewer, an accurate depiction of that session, and not the phony BS MOST people post to make it look all dreamy and perfect with no mistakes, which is total BS most of the time, anybody who surfs, knows it aint all blue skies and dreamy makeable tubes all day every day, there's a price to pay, and that's part of what makes it so alluring, in a rewarding way. And if Clay says it's heavy, it's f'ing heavy.


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Yeah man, he is an artist for sure. I don't know "all the details" on this, but when he was a lot younger, he was doing some competitive stuff and I read an article about him being "on the spectrum", indicating some form of autism.... And that he was not very social, didn't like to do interviews, sponsorships and what not..... Again, I don't know the whole story, but I think that is a big part of why he ended up doing the free surf videos and traveling and youtube. He just didn't fit into the competitive mold, and I think those situations gave him extreme anxiety. So now, he travels, basically surfs alone and just rips... Interesting cat. 


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DawnPatrol321
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@zach619 Yep, all true, he has to be seeing the waves in a different way than others, sometimes it can be a superpower.


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@dawnpatrol321 Yeah, those kinds of things are interesting. I have had ADHD since I was a kid. Mostly untreated. It hurts me in some ways, but over time, it had me absolutely obsess on certain things. First it was track, then basketball, then soccer, then 25 years of surfing. In strange ways, it allows you to zone in on things that you enjoy in an abnormal way. The jury is still out whether this is healthy in any way, but I know that for 10 years in California, I HAD to surf every morning. For at least an hour, no matter the conditions, or I could not focus on anything else. Couldn't eat. Couldn't relax. I would just envision waves in my head and have to go.... Yes, I probably missed out on certain opportunities or time doing other things, but at the time, it didn't matter. Every moment of every day was spent obsessing and trying to surf better.


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Here is a quick little video. They get into the autism stuff towards the 4 minute mark. 


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DawnPatrol321
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This is some inpiring stuff right here. I have seen this dude in the lineup many times over the years, especially around NSB and Ponce Inlet, he's a very talented surfer, but got his pilots license not too long ago and has been getting some great waves and footage as a result. Flying a small plane definitely adds a whole new element to the journey, this is probabably his best edit since getting his license to fly. Enjoy!

 


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Yeah, that is a sick one. I watched that back when he dropped the video. I am not sure how I would feel piloting my own plane like that, regardless of a license. I would be shitting a brick =)


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UnfUrled
Posts: 95
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Joined: 4 months ago

This guy came by here to debut a new vid. This isn't it, but it's a guy worth a follow IMO. Didn't even wait til the video premiere but it looks like Erratic Nerve puts out a bunch. My buddy had to put his kids to sleep while i was down to catch the Panthers-Jags preseason game with another buddy


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hangingten
Posts: 16
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Joined: 3 months ago

bump


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(@zach619)
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@hangingten What's up bro? Are you an old Mostoke or Swellinfo refugee? Or are you new to the site all together?


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hangingten
Posts: 16
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Joined: 3 months ago

good once i figure out how to get in here 


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ibc
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 ibc
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Yo, hangingten.  I think you made it in here.  Do you bodysurf? 😎🤙


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ibc
Posts: 730
 ibc
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I know.  Don't let anyone know you bodysurf.  That's for kids and tourists.  Don't tell Kelly.  He might quit.  😎🤙🌊🐬🌊


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I don't know of any surfers that don't naturally have body surfing in their blood. I can't think of a time, ever being in the ocean without a board and seeing any kind of decent wave and not immediately diving into it and body surfing. There is nothing better than body surfing in between prone sessions on a beach day. I can't help myself. Anyone who doesn't love do body surf, any time they can, must not be doing it right. 


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hangingten
Posts: 16
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Joined: 3 months ago

jelly fish where im from 


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