Gorgeous sunrise pic and awesome surf pics too, Mitchell! 😎
Yesterday I hit the Canaveral sandbar on the LB with a few friends and little bit of the local lineup peeps, conditions didn't look great at first but it got better as the session went on, wind was light onshore adding some chop but wasn't terrible once the tide started coming in, things got really fun and waves were everywhere to be ridden. Mostly LB stuff but some were short boardable for sure. This morning was similar but just me and a friend plus one local wahine, but that was it for crowd, so it was nice to have lots of space and it was peaceful out. Everybody is gearing up for the upcoming swell, going to be windy but we'll take it!
Sick pics Mitch. Glad you buoys up North and to the South are scoring. Been a really quiet stretch down here. Looking forward to some VAS this weekend.
Got out this morning in what started out as pretty clean 2-4' SW/NW mix, but the S winds came up a little and ruffled things up. mix of lefts and rights but a little chunky/funky with the mixed directions. Got about 6 decent waves on the 5'11" twinzer but felt a little off and missed a few/fell on a few. Still feel kind of jet-lagged from trip.
More LB waves at the Canaveral sandbar this morning, light onshore wind adding some texture / slight bump, but it was fairly organized still. Light crowd, just me and a few friends plus a few others. Not the best session but not the worst either. Lots of waves were ridden, kinda soft after poppping up but a few zippy runners mixed in.
Blew off the waves this morning early. Just didn't seem like waves worth getting up at 6 am. I'm re fucking tired! Wifey and I went out for lunch and I kind of said...lets park at the beach and eat lunch. it was sunny and 80 out so she was into it. Brought my board but the forecast was for basically no surf by afternoon. Well....there was 2-3 foot clean rights off the jetty at my local and I fucking trunked it. For Delaware in Mid October, that's pretty special. Buoy says 68 water temp and I'd guess that's about right. I was chilly for the first minute, then fine in the afternoon sun. Got a bunch about like this picture on the mini simmons.
Had a kid soccer game this morning so after that I skipped lunch and ducked out to the beach to get wet. There was a contest on at the main peak but worked out great cause the lack of parking or declining swell made my peak pretty deserted. Maybe 3-5 others scattered around getting some pretty fun 2-3’+. Got some really fun waves on the 5’10” puddlefish😁
This is my 2nd time attempting this post, when I hit "add reply" the site has some error and logged me out and it didn't post the 1st time.
Saturday was a fun LB session at the Canaveral sandbar with a couple friends and light crowd, not big yet but started getting some of those forerunners and it was a blast.
Sunday, yesterday I ran up to the Jetty after Church for the incoming high tide, about chest high with a few bigger, pretty organized but lots of wind, thankfully the jetty helped out but I was not very close to it, due to crowd, but it was bigger down the beach anyways, so a little trade off dealing with a little more of the wind than some others, but I'll take it.
Today was supposed to be bigger / better with double the swell on the buoys, over 11ft at 13-14 seconds on the offshore buoy and about 5ft at 13-14 sec on the nearshore buoy, but the outgoing low tide was hurting it, so while there was more swell, the size was similar. The wind wasn't good early, really strong and hard rain that felt like needles on my face, but eventually that passed and there was a window where the wind was light out of the NE, and it got pretty good for a bit, then the wind cranked back up from the ENE and it took a toll on the quality, but still some chunks out there to be had, lineup was very light with just a few friends and a few others scattered aboot.
The hype so far hasn't been incredible, but another front is approaching this wknd. Did my due diligence and went after it yesterday evening. Wind died down, less drift compared to a buddy's afternoon session. Had the 3/2 on. Just bought a Need Essentials 4/3 yesterday, gonna sell my other one i've had fits with. It was pretty soft landings at the Washout with the couple wipe outs i had. Took the 6'8 Allison and put in at the showers of North Washout and drifted toward the clutter of ppl. Had a couple with some sweet drops, bout chest hi then a left i cruised in thru in pig dog stance before it unleashed me under another set wave whereas i lost my footing and fell back. Some drops in here and there but not a lot of runners. Sets weren't coming in at a good pace, def some waiting here and there. Walk back was pretty brutal once the sun dropped. Thought bout the handful of guys in the lineup still bare-backing it- yikes
It's that time of year... The rubber outbreak isn't universal, yet. Posts show people in fullsuites... outside spectators are all like it's wetsuit season already? It might warm up once more before summer is gone, but the recent cold blast had many of us back in the ol 3/2. I don't think it woulda been fun for long in yer trunks. 60° and 25mph N wind. You go right on ahead and trunk it. 3hrs later you mighta wished you just wore the dang suite. 😏
Sick session this morning early, before the wind and crowd got on it. Me and a few friends were in the water while it was still kinda dark, because they opened the gate early due to the rocket launch, which was SWEEET! Front row seats AND Glassy chest - head high reeling waves to shred on the 6.0? WHAT!? Yeah. So fun, but before too long the crowd of Johnny Come Lately's showed up, and the wind shifted to the North adding some bump, and the tide bottomed out, and like that I was ready to go in, but man, for a little over an hour it was AMAZING!
Yesterday morning and this morning were incredibly fun on the 6.0 at the popular CCB sandbar w/some friends and a few others, mostly uncrowded but it only takes one or two people to make it feel more crowded than it is, so there was a little bit of that but overall not bad at all. I got tons of waves both sessions, mostly lefts with the NE swell angle but a few rights mixed in as well. Yesterday I got probably my best left all year, hard to remember one that could top it, I was so happy when I saw it coming and I was in disbelief when it was over, top to bottom fully committed full speed flowing turns, rail to rail surf boarding really brings a smile to my face. 😎
This morning I hit up the Canaveral sandbar with a friend and a couple other regulars. It looked really good at first, got my 6.0 and paddled out stoking, got some great set waves, about waist - chest and kinda glassy and running in both directions. After a handful of waves the wind started to come up from the N, then NNE, and adding some cross chop and mixing it up a bit, but still some nuggets to be had, just got inconcistent and funky for a bit as the tide was going out. Not the best session but not the worst either, still stoked on the waves I got early!
Got out this afternoon in some semi clean 2-4’. Somewhat inconsistent so it made the sets competitive. I kind of don’t care for those conditions because people catch a wave and then are right back in the lineup before the next 1-3 wave set shows up that already has 5-7 peeps waiting for it, then everybodys jockeying, trying to figure out who’s going, what direction they are going….pffft. I got like 7-8 decent waves so I guess I can’t grouse too much
Surfed the park reef this morning, about 2-4’ kind of inconsistent, mixed swell directions some light sideshores. Only two others out, so was able to catch a few
Surfed this afternoon at Indian River Inlet Delaware. Water is cooling down. I was in a 3/2 and I saw a few guys in boots. We've had relentless onshore winds, that backed off a bit this afternoon. Still funky conditions, chest high, rode the 6'6" Chris Burch twin egg and had one of those "OFF" sessions where I felt like I couldn't read the waves.
Saturday I hit up the Jetty early with a few friends, I had the LB just in case but I rode the 6'6" twinny since it was bigger than expected, about waist / stomach high and zippy, I got a ton of waves and had a blast. One of my buds who doesn't make it out as often paddled out on his new knee board, shaped by Ricky Carrol, and the thing is actually pretty suite! He decided after his shoulder surgery for his torn rotator cuff that he wanted something not as brutal on his shoulders, so he got this board and some fins and went kneelo style (hey Kidrock), and was having a blast out there, which was cool to see. Not really for me, but dude is stoked! Eventually the crowd got to be a bit much so after a while I called it, but until that happened it was non stop action.
Sunday I hit it early again before Church, buoys were solid with the nearshore buoy over 6ft at 11 sec East, and the 20 mile offshore buoy was 12.5ft at 11 sec NE, so i'd call it a solid chest / shoulder high or so, a few head high sets, and yeah the wind all over it from the NE but the Jetty did it's job and made it really fun. I did a no look send and ran from the parking lot to the water with my 6.0, and was first in, got some BOMBS, then a friend and a few familiar faces joined me and we all were stoking out of our gills! So damn fun, wish I could have stayed longer.
This morning, same time, same place, the nearshore buoy was 6.2ft at 10 sec East, and the offshore buoy was at about 14ft at 11-13 sec ENE, so a more direct angle, not much Cape shadowing, so I would call it a SOLID and consistent chest - head, with some overhead sets, and was probably the best early for the incoming high tide. I was first in the water again, rode the 6.0 again, and I got into many, many bombs, both left and right.
There was a right that I got early in the session that was probably the biggest wave I have caught at this spot before, if not the biggest, it's up there for sure, I didn't really have time to pull out my measuring stick haha, but as I dropped in, made my backside bottom turn, I had to look UP over my shoulder to see the lip of this monster, and it just kept growing as I went down the line, I was up in the guts of this thing, and I had the peak right on my heels chomping at me, but I made it unscathed and let out the biggest YEW I could muster, I was on cloud 9 for the rest of the session, and I couldn't contain myself I had to ask the rando who was paddling out right when I made the drop into this thing if he saw that, and he did, I didn't need reassurance but I felt like I had a witness hahaha (can I get one? 😎) Hallelujah!
After that wave I got a meaty left, close in size, but maybe a foot smaller, but it was super fast, punchy and ran a long distance and let me really go to work on it, not just a race but playground too, my goodness that was a good one. So many I could go on all day, but those two really stand out. I stayed out about 90+ minutes, my shoulder was starting to feel it and the paddle was getting tougher and the crowd was getting thicker and the conditions were not quite as good early so I eventually took a good one to the beach and went home with a permagrin. YEWWWS!
More on tap tomorrow, stay tuned!
Decided to run out right after work yesterday. Lo tide 3pm. Winds were decreasing and it looked like sets were coming together around 4pm. Grabbed the 6' quad but still took the 6'8 Allison out. Once i'm halfway walking out in the water, ya see shoulder hi sets and think damn i should've grabbed the smaller board. The bigger boart didn't screw me over tho. Put in at 4th E on Folly and drifted down to the pier. Saw enough sun left to run it back. Grabbed a handful of rides each session. Nothing too memorable on the rides. Semi chop, large faces with plenty of closeouts. Knew this morning would be worth a look, calmer winds and cleaner conditions. Looks good out there, some waist to chest hi conditions. Would've done it but my 4/3 wetsuit i ordered didn't show up at the house as planned. Tides are kinda screwy this week along with the wind, so not sure if another session is in the cards this week. Plenty of rideable swell out there, just need to find a time to get on it