This morning was incredibly fun, same spot, same board, same thigh - waist+ glassy runners, but thankfully the crowd wasn't on it this time, and I had a field day out there, countless nose rides, hang 10's, cheater 5's, both directions, cut backs, cruising up and down the face, pumping for speed, hitting lips, going off the top, every way was, just wow. It was like fish in a barrel. I had it to myself for about 30 minutes, then a local older wahine paddled out and we traded waves for a bit, then a few other peeps joined at the end, but mostly empty with a crowd way down the beach. I'm so ready to rip a SB but when I have sessions like this I can wait another day or two. YEEEW! 😎
Surfed 7:30 - 9:00 this morning, but just as it was starting to turn on a little bit with the incoming tide, a massive thunderstorm hit. Lined up 2 footers that were good on the mini simmons but the best surf was just starting when the storm chased us out. Basically lot of knee high lines like this:
Rinse, repeat, same spot, same board, same stupid wave! HAHA Sooo fun once again. Wind forecast was off, instead of onshore and choppy it was glassy and nearly calm / very light onshore.
It's PUMPING out there this morning! Finally! WOOOHOOO! Solid chest high with some shoulder / head high peaks on the better sets, with a light onshore wind and at times felt calm, but slightly bumpy from the overnight onshores lingering, but pretty organized since it had calmed down at first light / sunrise. I rode the 6'2" Quiver Killa today, felt so nice to drop into a meaty wave, going top to bottom, and do some carving, hits off the lips, and really feeling it. Crowd was mostly just friends and a few regulars. Just enough swell to sort things out a bit. 😎
Been small to flat for about a week, went for a snorkel this afternoon. Went through the same underwater arch 2x. Bought another board impulsively, why didn’t you guys stop me?!
Surfed some onshore 2-3’ this afternoon on the 5’7”. Got about 6 waves in between waiting for sets and others snaffling them. Board generally feels great once up and riding but catching them when fatty high tide and onshore remains an issue. 😁
Fun weekend for the most part, Saturday was tricky, lots of thunderstorm / lightning activity all morning / afternoon. My first trip over at first light resulted in checking the surf at a couple of spots and going home, it didn't look nearly as good as I had hoped, and there was storms sitting right off the coast and the lightning was pretty incredible, but close, too close to risk it, if it had been firing and flawless I may have taken the risk, being a dumbass, but the juice wasn't worth the squeeze.
After I went home, drank coffee and ate, I got motivated again and went back out to check some different spots, ended up at the ole reef slab, which is closer to home, and had less lightning close by than the other spots, so I sent it for about 45 minutes or so, got 10 or so waves, hard to find one that would run all the way, either sectioned off or closed out, fizzled, etc., but some were pretty good, got some turns and hits off the lip for sure, but I wasn't exactly stoking either with lightning in the area, so I considered it a win and got out before it got too close again. What really made me cautious was seeing how many lightning bolts would strike that DID'T come out of a dark cloud, it was way out in front of it, and STILL was striking all the way to the ground, so when I saw THAT happening, I knew this was not a minor electrical storm, nope, GTFO lol.
Sunday was nicer out, didn't have to deal with any of that, just found an empty sandbar at the hidden in plain site / "secret" lesser frequented spot on the base, and got it pretty good for a couple of hours on the 6'6" twinny. It wasn't super consistent, kinda lully and had to be patient, but the sets were worth it, some had some good size and power and ran all the way, so I was stoking when I got into one. Over the span of 2hrs or so I racked up quite a few, so it ended up being a great solo session. There were a couple people who had paddled later in the session nearby but they stayed away, score.
Surfed some 2-4’ this afternoon, kind of the same as yesterday but way more people. Frustrating, low wave count day🙄
Got out this afternoon in some rising SW swell. Light onshores about 3-5’, just me and one other out. Got my six keepers and got back to shore to find the high tide made off with one of my slippers!
I can't go too long without surfing so I took my LB to the beach despite a dismal forecast and buoys almost flat or going the wrong direction, all logic pointed to stay home, BUT me and the boys brought our collective positive attitudes and together we generated some really fun knee high runners, maybe even thigh high on a few, glassy, and fast too on many of them. I must have repped out 100 waves in about 90 minutes or so. Good work out! Gorgeous sunrise, wow, a thing of beauty.
Super sesh this afternoon! 3-5’ light onshores and I had it to myself for at least 1.5 hours before I even saw another surfer. Rode the 5’10” twin and it was really working, though the fin set I picked today was slightly tracky. So great for hauling A to beat sections, not so great for turns. Got my 6 waves, than 8, than 10…I hated to leave but I was gassed😁
Another morning of glassy micro runners on the LB, feels like waves on a budget, but hey, it's going to be pumping reeeeeal soon, I can FEEL it!
Got out this morning on the 6'10" egg in some declining 2-4', pretty clean but lower consistency on sets and tide dropping out. Not bad crowd. Got 4-5 decent waves and called it a morning, back to work then have to hit the store and batten down the hatches for tomorrow.
Longboard session this afternoon. Weird vibe for an August Sunday afternoon. cool, dreary, I didn't recognize anyone, the waves were knee high lines. 5 people out at what is usually the most crowded spot on Delmarva. Got a few on the mini log, rode a long knee high left to the beach and split. We are in the doldrums between spring / summer wind swells, and tropical juice.
Yesterday early morning was really fun at a CCB sandbar. Here's a couple of screenshots from my session. The waves were a bit clampy but there were a few runners to be had. Most would allow me to get a decent ways down the line and then it would dump all at once on on the inside sandbar. The makeable runners were not as plentiful as I would have liked, but there were out there. I probably should have ridden a shorter board but I didn't bring one, as I didn't expect the steep / fast walled up waves that were on tap. Figured it may be rideable but was pretty stoked when I checked it from the beach.
Before it dumped.
This morning I went back up to the Canveral sandbar for some fun waves on the LB with friends. Not quite the size / power we saw yesterday but there were a few that still packed some power and offered up a nice running wave, most were makeable, don't recall too many close outs.
Some longer period in the water this morning, bumping the swell up a notch, and it was super glassy too, so the lines were really good and size was better than yesterday, around thigh - waist / stomach, and running in both directions from outside to the beach. I was first in the water at the Canaveral sandbar, my buddy was in the water right behind me, we got a bunch before everybody else showed up, then we had a couple more friends paddle, then all the familiar faces one by one, but I got mine without no issues, mostly. I had ONE dude show up at the end, came from nowhere, he tried paddling over from another peak and snake the lineup by getting just inside of us, so I made sure to nearly run him over on the takeoff and "buzz the tower" as a warning shot, scared the crap out of him and he stopped paddling when I zoomed from behind and around him at mach 3 speed HAHA, last we saw of him. Dude has longer curly hair and a red longboard and was doing the two handed paddle with the seesaw legs kicking and head banging to try to get into the wave LMAO I can't with these people...
More glassy LB waves this morning at the same Canaveral sandbar, little smaller / less consistent but there were plenty of nuggets to be had still, light crowd too. The sunrise this morning was pretty bad ass, big bright, changed colors, amazing.
Longer period swell in the water this morning. Waist high clean with BOTH sharks and jellyfish to contend with. Sharks were in the 4-6 ft range. Super fun rights off the jetty. Not many people out lately on weekdays...seems like summer is starting to wind down. at 9 a.m. when I shot this of my buddy Cale, there were maybe 8 ppl out. A month ago there would have been 25 ppl out midweek same time same conditions
