Smaller leftovers this morning at the same spot as yesterday, gorgeous sunrise, super glassy conditions with light offshore wind, and rapid fire micro runners. They weren't very big, but they ran a good distance and I couldn't stop catching them, so I got a good work out in. Light crowd again, me and one friend and a few of the locals, mostly wahines.

Kind of a repeat of yesterday this morning, small glassy runners, LOTS of them!

Flat.  Out came the cycle and went pedling up 30 minutes into a strong NE wind, then 30 minutes back. - good exercise and keeps my legs working well.  

Surf looking decent this weekend, but the tides are not in my favor. Mid morning low-tide, which is the swell killer here. Offshores both morning with things switching up cross/side into the afternoon. My only hope is that there is still some decent wind on it mid-afternoons through the weekend. I will give it a shot either way, but if it sucks, I will be helping the boy surf what is to him: head high nuggets, rather than surfing myself. 

Damn we need some swell. 

Fully intended to surf this morning after a long work week I strained my back yesterday morning lifting either a small table with potted plants on it or a full laundry basket. Neither of which was remotely heavy. If this is aging, it blows. Walked out to the park reef and saw some clean LB waves., about 2’ and clean with nobody out. Tomorrow looks to be a washout with the next system arriving tonight🙄

I can be out in the surf and get twisted up like a Gumby pretzel.  No problemo.  Roll over the wrong way gettin outa bed and have a pain somewhere til the afternoon.   I guess the answer is stay in the ocean.  

Took your advice and got out on the LB this morning in some clean 2-3’. 3 others out and a mix of swell directions made things interesting. Back felt ok, still a little stiff. Hopefully I’ll be shortboard ready for later this week

That might not be exactly what I meant, but glad you're loosenin up.  😎🤙

I think maybe it's more like I'm safer away from solid ground and hard objects when I'm bodysurfin.   Except from occasionally bouncin offa the bottom, preferably not head first.  I can do crazy shit in that environment, but get injured gettin outa bed.  People wouldn't believe it's the same dude.  Haha

I have gone out with a mysto injury and had it go away before I came in.  Throwin a surfboard in is another variable, though.  Different forces.  YMMV.  

I am in my mid-40s. My step-sister is about 37ish if I remember correctly. She is the one that works for the state department. Anyway, she is not the most athletic person on earth. Huge soccer fan. Not a player by any means. Anyway, like 5-6 years ago, she was stationed in D.C. so she was living downtown for 2 years. She was out to dinner with a friend and waiting for a cross walk. She stepped off the curb to walk across the street. Like a 4 inch drop. She stepped down awkwardly and broke her foot and ankle in multiple places and was out of commission for like 6 months. 

It's usually not the DOH barrel that gets you. It some idiot that lets go of their board when it's 1ft out and hits you in the head with it. 

I have been far more debilitated by sleeping in the wrong position than any surf session I have had in many years =)

I surfed middles at the Trestle yesterday. Got on it early and shared a peak with one other guy for 45 minutes. 

hope yall been good buoys! Austine is a cuck

There was a fun little LB wave this morning at the Canaveral sandbar. It was glassy and lined up, small, but fun enough. Pretty light crowd with a few friends and some of the regulars. Looks like we start to see a little more longer period swell filtering in Thursday into the weekend, we'll see.

I hit the same spot this morning to grab some small but clean LB waves for the incoming high tide, light offshore wind, glassy little lines, me and a friend had it to ourself at first, then a couple local wahines paddled out, that was it for crowd. Nice morning, slight overcast, sun was hiding for a while.

More of the same this morning, 1ft @ 14 seconds on the nearshore and 1.3ft @ 14 seconds on the 20 mile offshore buoy. PUMPING.

Got out yesterday afternoon on the new board a Lost RNF twinzer. Conditions were not great, onshore chop really high tide. I stuck around the inside catching the more shallow reforms, caught a few and the board felt great! I did not having residual back pain and really bad foot cramps. Not sure what that is about…

Fun waves yesterday.  Our favorite jet-ski-ridin, big wave charging, nemesis out getting toes on the nose

Got out this morning is some 2-3'+, pretty clean until after about an hour and a half the onshores started to rear up. Rode the 5'10" stamps twin and got a few decent ones and one pretty good "set" wave but it was pretty slow...

I had an incredible session yesterday morning at first light at a spot close to home, for about an hour on the 6'6" twinny. I was first in the water and had a ball taking every set wave that came in and carving these meaty sections up, it was kinda like hill bombing, the wave kept breaking but it seemed like it was all down hill, if that makes sense, so it was super fast on the twin.

I haven't been wearing a leash for a while, like months now, mostly when I'm on the LB but I decided to roll the dice on the 6'6" twinny with no leash, even though it a solid chest high with some shoulder or so, and pretty consistent, a little wonky and mixed up from the overnight SE winds, but it was cleaning up by the minute. I surf so much better without the leash, less to think about, nothing to get caught up on or step on, FREEDOM! I was a little concerened I may have to swim in at least once but it never happened, near flaweless session. I will wear a leash when it's legit pumping though, but for a day like that, why not? lol 

On the otherhand, and I was not aware of this happening, but apparently one of my friends friends, an acquantance of mine snapped the leash on his LB and he was stuck on the inside getting pounded and couldn't get out, started to panic, and needed my friend's help getting in, and he was a little shook up, but he was back in the water with us this morning at a different spot. He's been surfing a while, and has been in heavier waters, travels to places like Panama and shit, but he generally doesn't really do well when the waves are critical or heavy so he sticks to LB friendly stuff I think when he travels, but any way. I had NO idea this occurred, and it never really dawned on me that it was remotely dangerous, I took it for granted, just having fun, so I was shocked when my buddy told me the story. But hey, I guess it can happen to anybody. I have been caught off guard before and it was like WTF just happened type thing.

This morning wasn't nearly as good, we hit a spot on the base, got some rides on the LB that were decent, I hooted once or twice lol, but aside from those, it was kinda crappy as the swell / period is fading. Maybe it bounces back tomorrow, we shall see.

Yeah, I used to do the no leash thing at certain spots in San Diego, because of "local legend" or "lore" There are a handful of spots, especially the summer reefs that are closer to shore, where you are expected NOT to wear a leash. And on mid-sized days, it's common for most people not to wear leashes on sunset cliffs, even at the spots that are like 1/4 - 1/2 mile out. Makes you learn board control and pay the piper when you make a mistake.... So, that was all fun and mostly "training" as it were. You are a lot more careful when you know you don't have that safety net.

That said, DP, I feel the exact opposite without a leash. I feel naked. Especially on a shortboard. It makes me surf way too reserved. I am far less likely to try and punt a section at the end, or do a laydown snap or land a huge air drop floater or anything. A lot of the time, I will kick out early, or air hop off the back, or just cut the board back through the face at the end.... 

And I know, in reality, if you just don't think about it, it is really no different. But I can't shake that naked feeling on a shortboard. And generally speaking, the spots I speak of on the west coast are devoid of swimmer. There are no bodies floating on the inside. There are channel paths out to all the breaks, so there is no fear of striking someone with your board. 

But on the east coast, generally, there are most likely people in the water. Or other surfers on the inside. Or a less defined takeoff point/peak, so I usually leash it up, just so I don't accidentally level some kid with my board. 

I do like long boarding with a leash. Even though I have an 8' leash on my LBs, that are stretched out a bit, if you walk all the way to the nose, that thing is tighter than a nun's snatch. So, I do feel restricted on an LB in most cases, but if there surf has any kind of size to it, you really gotta leash it up.

Last major damage I had on my LB was a couple years ago when I blew the entire center fin box out... I was riding the LB with no leash, and I got a nice long ride, all the way to the inside, and I pulled into a little shorebreak barrel. I knew I had no leash on, so when the thing swallowed me up, I grabbed the rail and tried to pull the whole board back through the inside of the wave, it pulled over the falls, caught fins and ripped the whole thing out....

Again, I am blaming the leash for that, because had I had a leash on, I would have just let the board go and it would have naturally just aimed towards the beach and lightly flopped around... Because I tried to grab the board and make sure I didn't lose it, it hit an awkward angle and detonated in the sand. With a leash, that never would have happened, I would have bailed on the wave normally and the board would have maintained it's integrity. 

After my return to surfin, it took a minute to get used to a leash.   But, I was pretty happy to have it on gnar outside days.  Even if it was totally the reason I got chestboned®️©️

Remnants of Dollywood rippling thru. Took my chances on it yesterday evening with the LB. Had a few gems in some textured thi swell with occ waist sets. A few to glide on was nice, kinda needed it. Wasn't planning on it but the lo tide at 5 kinda pushed me to get out there. Surfed just north of folly beach pier, waited on the last wave of the day. Had a wave roll over that i didn't want to whitewash out on, and a jellyfish rolled over my arm, bicep. It was a solid stinger, but had the hydrocortizone handy in the car. Helped stop the inflammation and altogether not the worst looking sting.

Bout forgot about the jellyfish sting next morning, cuz i didn't grab a rashie as planned. Ended up at same spot, more ppl closer to pier but didn't really have to deal with that. It was just smoother rollers coming thru, just longer period swell. Had a few more gems tho on the LB, got to toy with a good bit. Tides aren't in my favor this mid week to get the best of it, but planning on getting an oil change in the morning tomorrow to give it a a longer try on the incoming tide with a shorty - fingers crossed