I went out for a 2nd session yesterday for the low outgoing tide at my homebreak near the house, which was pretty damn fun when a good set came through, only issue was it was a bit lully / inconsistent and I was on my 6'2" QK so I needed a poweful set to get into one, but I did get into quite a few, and they had good size to them, chest high or so, I got some good speed runs in and a few turns, nothing crazy, the wave was a little soft and the tide didn't feel low at all, which was weird, but it worked out mostly good when I was in the right spot at the right time.
I hit a popular CCB sandbar this morning with a few friends and a little bit of a crowd, but not bad, I got into quite a few waves on the 6'6" twinny, and some of them really lined up and reeled a good distance, about waist high with a few bigger, and pretty glassy too, yew!
true i feel you on that
As fun as yesterday was, this morning was pretty amazing on the LB. I didn't need to ride the LB, but I am not bummed about the decision, given the session I had, and what beautiful morning too, the sun was hiding behind the clouds for most of the morning, but it was really nice out, water felt extra warm today. I paddled out before 1st light in the dark, but there was enough light to see what was going on. After about a half dozen or so waves a couple friends paddled out and joined me, then some more familiar faces, but it didn't get too crowded, and it was good vibes and smiles all around! 😎
Another fun one at the CCB sandbar, got on it early again, spent over 90 minutes getting into some small but punchy and fast runners, about thigh / waist high I reckon. Sun never really came out, overcast and dark horizon w/more lightning offshore, been lots of that lately.
Got out this morning pretty early in some 2-3’ semi-glass. Just me and two other cool locals sharing the peak. Rode the 5’11” twinzer this time with a trailer fin which seemed to take the edge off the blinding speed a little and allow for some rail work. Good fun!
Got out this morning, same time, same spot. Rideable on the 5’10” stamps twin but just barely. About 2’+ but a little less juice than yesterday. Got some ok waves but nothing to write home about
Sunday afternoon session in Delaware. The Eagles were playing so that ALWAYS cuts the crowd factor, and the swell was a bit unforecast, but fun. I rode a 7' twin egg in the 1 footers. This girl surfs just about every day and is really stylish, and super friendly.
Another. It's wild how Big Wave Dave, the guy in the background who winters in CFLA, is wearing a fullsuit and boot in 78 degree water. It's WARM!
I recognize stylin girl from before, Mitchell. Lovin it. 😎🤙
Go Dave! 😁
So, with the lack of storms this season, and a further lack of local windswell and anything fun, I told my wife earlier last week that I was going to surf over the weekend, "no matter what"... I called my buddy Wednesday night and said "I am going Saturday and Sunday morning at 8am, with a mid morning high tide, no matter what. You in?".... Or course he is... So, his daughter and my son are best friends, so we took the kids. We surfed and they played on the beach and then paddled out and surfed with us.
Saturday and Sunday morning were identical. Stomach high. Sheet glass with light offshore. Perfect tide. Lulls in between sets, but every 5 minutes, there would be a perfect 3 wave set that would come through and jump up....
As soon as I got to the beach, I saw some peaks straight out and to the south. Then, a set comes through and hits this Sand Bar to the slight north PERFECTLY. Automatic left hand wedge dredging over the bar... Perfect....
1.5 hour session each time. 20 wave count total. Nose riding. Floaters. Cutbacks. Runners. My knees got multiple barrels =)
Anyway, I needed this one. It was juicy enough to link up multi-section waves.
Somehow, I only had one leash, so I gave it to my son and rode my LB without one. Fun fun fun... Never lost the board. Mostly jumping off with fins in the sand.
The boy caught some really good right handers.
Anyway, what made this so special was:
- Although I manage/program my own forecasts and site, I always check every source I can, including surfline etc.... So, all week, surfline was projecting "FLAT" thursday-sunday. Not small. Flat. It was suggesting .5ft @. seconds with onshore wind... Huh? All of my data is showing 1.5ft @ 8 seconds with light offshores Saturday and Sunday before noon, then it switches.....
Surfcaptain has it flat. Surfline has it flat.... But that is impossible. I am looking at data from 4 other sources that are telling me there will be waist to stomach high sets with perfect offshore grooming....
I was right, they were wrong. It was 2ft+ and clean as shit....
Nothing to write home about, but I needed it badly. A 40 wave weekend is always a good thing, and albeit it small and on a LB, I milked every second from them and did my thing... The kids had fun too....
And I managed to clean my garage, do a bunch of yardwork and still work in a shit load of football.
Nice Zach, glad you guys got some! "Go before you know" is my motto 🤣 Surflie costs people sessions, I see it happen with my friends all the time. That's cool you got your forecast so dialed in for your spot, good job man!
Yesterday morning I hit the CCB sandbar again with a few friends, lots of famliar faces, and a million other people I've never seen before. Pretty much everybody within a 2 hour radius was probably at the same spot, which was crazy and hectic, especially given the size, but I was in the water well before first light and got a bunch of uncrowded waves first, then I hung around as long as I could until it was time to go to Church. Good times at the CCB sandbar, but I can't do crowds like that very often, so I'll probably be doing what I can to avoid that any time soon.
This morning, I got some fun glassy little runners at the Canaveral sandbar, which was empty before first light, got some waves with a couple friends before anybody else paddled out. The crowd as about 10% the size of the CCB sandbar yesterday, so I consider it a win, but my goodness, I am small waved out. We got a NE swell coming Wednesday / Thursday, so that will help, but it will include a little bit of wind, but I'll take it. The bigger and gnarly the better, that will keep the lineup nice and empty.
I too was surprised to hear swell was solid Sunday morning. Saw the surf report when i woke up, took a look at the cams and sure enough made sense to bounce on it. Everything i saw was 1.5 ft at 7 sec or less, which would make it knee hi at best. Drops were much bigger than the stomach hi rides i got tho. Took the LB to north Washout, hi tide once i paddled in. Mostly about the drops, but did have some lines on a few. Didn't stick around as I could've, caught a nearby car show that i was pre-gaming with a buddy for the start of the NFL season.
Did drop off a board at the shop to sell, letting go of the mini-Vernor. The rides weren't appealing to me to keep it around. Could've sold it at a surf swap on Saturday, but wasn't feeling the coffee shop vibe to stick around to do so. Always a few boards that stood out to me at that annual surf swap, this time it was a 5'10 bonzer. Curious how those rode, rare for me to see one on a shorty. Usually it's a mid-length
Photographer at the beach last week go a few shots of me riding the new mini simmons. SO much fun!
exactly the kind of soft 1-2 foot waves I made the board for
Nice shots Mitchell! Shredding!
I got some fun little zippy runners at the reef spot this morning, I started on the LB, then switched to the 6'6" twinny after a few rides. The wave was a bit on the inside and running to the sand, glassay, punchy, fast. I got a bunch of rides and had it to myself, only one guy who was sitting on the boardwalk when I got there paddled out after 30 minutes of watching me, he got a few on a different peak down the beach and left, and some lady paddled out right before I got out and just did a quick paddle up the beach and back, that was it. Gorgeous sunrise, peaceful morning, I needed that, haven't had any solitude in the water for a while, hard to come by when it's Summer and only a select few breaks worth the paddle, but I got lucky, blessed! 😎
got skunked this morning. Well sorta, just wasn't worth my time. It's slowly got better but likely more offshore wind on it too. Thi hi looking at the Folly pier at sunrise, but it was also right after lo tide. It was a gamble. Got off the rest of the week starting tomorrow, hoping to score some before getting outta town. Winds should get lighter, so not gonna be in a rush to get to the beach until it's properly filled in
Surf's UP! And so is the onshore wind haha, pretty blown out and gnarly everywhere, but all good, the Jetty makes sense of the chaos and it was pretty dang fun on the 6'6" twinny. It was mostly just me and a couple friends on it, a few others paddled but were nowhere near me, so it felt like just the boys for the most part. Waves were chunky, around waist - chest or so with some nice drops and a few that ran the distance, while others offered up a nice section or two and would section off. I'll be back at it tomorrow, finally some size out there!
Another day off nice sized chunky waves with onshore winds this morning at the Jetty, Wind not quite as bad as yesterday, still a little bumpy, but surf was fairly organized out there and offered up some nice rides on the 6'6" twinny, with most sets in the chest high range, some a little smaller / bigger, kind of a mixed back of everything, but a good time regardless. I got my best waves right before I finished up, 3 lefts that made my morning back to back to back, the 2nd to last being the WOTD, chest / shoulder high left that broke outside and ran all the way to the inside, top to bottom turns, maxing out the RPM's! Yew! Just what I needed!
Another afternoon session on the mini simmons. Waves were a bit wind - whipped and the tide was wrong. I paddled out and was shocked to see only one other guy in the water and it's an old friend who I rarely see anymore. He's a commercial fisherman who is out slaying Conch, Whelk, Tilefish, and other things instead of surfing. Usually you see him when it's big...bigger than I care to deal with. Today, my buddy Teddy was enjoying a day off fishing and surfing slop by himself. And me. Love!
