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Who has been surfing this week?

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(@zach619)
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[#47]

So, I elected to do the normal Father's Day thing yesterday. Kalua Pork, Banana leaf wrapped pork shoulder on the smoker over night, then held it all day on the egg at 200 degrees. Grilled pineapples, collards, slaw and mac salad.... So we hit the beach, I brought the LB for me and the little fish for the boy. My son was killing it. He was paddling into all his own waves, and because my wife had her back to the ocean talking to family, she forced my son to do his first "real" big turn. It turns out, that he is regular footed, after much debate, so he is flying down a wave, going right towards my wife and her ister, neither paying attention, and it forces hit to lean into it, tweak his ankles, and he made a frontside turn and angled down the beach like 15 yards past them into the sand. I was stoked. He was stoked.

I was waiting on the tide to fill in so I could take out the LB, we walked up to this Tiki bar that is at my main surf beach, had a cocktail and some lunch and when we returned, it was almost high tide, but no one in the water. 1,000 people on the beach. Red flags up, but it was very light wind. So, I go up to the little blond life guard: "Shark?", Yes. she says. Black tip I ask? Yes. How long? Five minutes ago... So at that point, they keep the beaches clear for 30 minutes, so I packed up, we went home. Got in some pool time and then ripped into the Hawaiian BBQ. 

Not a ton of surfing, but my boy was killing it, so that was great for father's day.  


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You get any waves yesterday? My wife has family and town, so her and the kiddos are at the tourist beach today, I think they only brought boogie boards. My wife doesn't pack for the beach the way I do... 


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ibc
 ibc
(@ibc)
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I got plenty of fun ones yesterday.  Heard my spray often enough to keep me grinnin.  1st sandbar was thumpin at times.  Waist high halfway clean occasionally.  Deep ruts in spots.  One right by shore went from knee to waist deep in 2 steps down the beach.  It's fun findin em on the way outa the water.  Some days you go into a chest deep hole in 3 steps.  Actually hard to climb out the same direction you went in.  Gotta find a lesser slope the other end of the hole.  🤣 Red flag has backed off to yellow today, but there's still loggable nugs.  😎🤙


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Val Hallalla
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(@val-hallalla)
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Not me. I haven't surfed since February. Coldest day (40s) we had last winter. Tore my right rotator cuff. Lots of pain when I attempted to pop up and I could barely paddle. I've been going through physical therapy for a few months that should end tomorrow. I feel much better, no pain and maybe even stronger than before. All I need now is some surf to see how well I healed. Not even anything happening up-coast lately. Ugh.

All things must pass and so too will the flatness.


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@val-hallalla Damn bro, hope you can get back into form soon with some waves. I had a buddy get the same thing done about 18 months ago and it took him around 10 months to get back at it. He is currently in South America sending me crazy photos of him shredding big ass right hand points.... 

Also, I don't know what your exact area is, but let me know. When I created this site years ago, it was really just based on the surf here on Hilton Head Island, SC then I kept running into guys from Florida and NC, so I basically added forecasts and live cams to ever "major" spot from Miami to OBX... Hense the "South East Surf" name.... But, it's pretty easy for me to just change the code for most forecasts and link it to your closest beaches/buoys etc.... 

I have something setup for IBC right now down in Texas. Only took about 30 minutes to get that up and going....

Please let me know your general region and I can add some forecasting data, report tools and local cams. At some point, I can just start in Maine and work my way down the whole coast, but for now, I will just put the effort into spots as folks chime in. 


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Val Hallalla
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@zach619 Zach619 said: Damn bro, hope you can get back into form soon with some waves. I had a buddy get the same thing done about 18 months ago and it took him around 10 months to get back at it. He is currently in South America sending me crazy photos of him shredding big ass right hand points....

Zach, it sounds like your buddy might have had surgery to treat his shoulder. It has a long recovery time like that. I have been doing physical therapy where you strengthen the other muscles to compensate for the damaged one. I have been making steady progress but still have a little ways to go.

Zach619 said: Please let me know your general region and I can add some forecasting data, report tools and local cams. At some point, I can just start in Maine and work my way down the whole coast, but for now, I will just put the effort into spots as folks chime in.

If you want to make a forecast for the surf purgatory of south Broward County I certainly won't complain and appreciate the effort. However, TBH the lack of actual surf is a bigger problem for us than a lack of surf forecasts. Our only real hope here this time of year is a tropical system in the right location not on top of my house.


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ibc
 ibc
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@val-hallalla Great Aviator.  😎🤙🌴


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ibc
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 ibc
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Ouch


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oipaul
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I scored sizeable swell in Kauai two weeks ago, was well OH a few days. I mostly surfed the left reef I could walk to which is super fun and just sooo easy to catch, we had hard trades for a few of the biggest days and one morning I paddled out alone and it was big, gnarly and windy and I just was not comfortable and ended up going in without catching anything.  We drove down to Shipwrecks beach and watched the local crazies riding softops and boogs in head high shorebreak dumpers one day.  I did paddle a LB out to the big right outer reef one morning when the size came down and very cautiously caught a few in the shoulder-head range.

Got a couple of smaller days here and there since we got back. I pulled my lower back lifting a 3-drawer bin full of matchbox cars when cleaning my kids room yesterday so I'm out of commission for at least a few days until that clears up...


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Damn man, that is obviously a lot more action that we have seen. I know for the past few weeks, my old crew in SoCal has been enjoying the south swells of the millennium. The footage I have seen from Orange County etc has been all time. Complete barrel fests. I haven't ridden a shortboard in about 3 months if my math is correct. But, I have been watching the kiddos surf the shortboards in what is to them: Chest high... haha. 


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DawnPatrol321
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YEEEEW!!! It's GREAT to be back fellas! Wow, what a dismal run we had for much of the Summer, it's been painfully small, and even a few days were completely flat, but, as usual, me and a couple friends continued to paddle out and find some sandbars producing SOMETHING we could ride on the LB's, and we kept scoring these little but fun waves, day, after day, after day, and FINALLY, we've been seeing a notch better surf, both in size and quality.

Yesterday was REALLY fun at a sandbar in the Canaveral zone, a bit North of the Pier, where the beach is angled to the ESE, catching all of the swell angled from the ESE / SSE and breaking perfectyl down the sand bars from outside, all the way to the beach.

This morning was even more consistent, and a half a notch bigger than yesterday, with a few stand out sets in the waist / stomach range. My WOTD was a right hander that I lined up perfectly from way outside and it stood up and just kept standing up and it was a race to the finish line all the way in, my friend said it looked almost chest high on me at one point! Haven't seen a wave like that in a while, I'm stoked it chose me! 😎 


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UnfUrled
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Not as good as promised this morning on Folly. Scooted up to Washout for some occ waist hi in some semi-chop textured waters, but it had a nice slope to it. Took a buncha rights on the mini-Vernor. Got more than my handful which was a victory in the time span i got. Buddy took his lefts on the outlets, while i took the a-peel of the walls on the rights. Lil drift, but expectations are for a better tomorrow morning. Should be rideable thru Friday when i plan to spike down an umbrella at the beach. It's a shame Folly has major roadwork going on, shop owners are not amused to say the least...


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@unfurled Good to hear from you brother. Glad you are getting something up there. Better than nothing. I am locked in at work for the rest of the week, so I will most likely miss the goods unless there is something out there tomorrow evening.


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DawnPatrol321
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Surf's UP! We have a fresh NNE / NE swell filling in this morning mixed in with the Easterly swell we've been getting. Swell angle and the incoming mid tide was a concern early due to full moon, had to check a few spots, but we landed at Ole Faithful on the Base, and we had the place to ourself for the most part, one other guy was waaaaay up the beach from us by himself. Waves were about waist high with occassional bigger sets, fairly consistent, a little bumpy but not bad at all, it was breaking off the middle / inside sandbars and ran to the sand, and it got better with the start of the incoming high tide. I rode the 6'6" twinny for the first time in what feels like ages, what great feeling!


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ibc
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 ibc
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Haha.  Y'all got the surf now.  😎🤙


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DawnPatrol321
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@ibc Yes, finally! I mean, it's not like I wasn't surfing and having a good time before, but we haven't seen 3ft on the buoy in a minute, was nice sight first thing this morning. Tomorrow I'm hoping to score Seabass Inlet, will report back.


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(@mitchell)
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Hey Zack!!  Thanks for doing this. Hey everyone! This is perfect timing because yesterday was MAGIC.  OCMD inlet turned on with the incoming time.  Got a bunch of little bangers on my new favorite board.  OC inlet has fallen out of favor with the surf community, probably because it's so fickle and inconsistent.  Those of us who have been surfing there for decades can still score the windows of fun surf that people have given up on.  Yesterday was THAT day.

1782922957-6-30-2026a.jpg

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Nice, welcome back brother! I will hopefully have an upgrade coming soon so you can post more than one pic at a time...

P.S. I am not sure if it is you or not, but some dude, who I think was you, I have been friend requesting you via facebook from the ocean city surfing page. Not sure if you have a doppleganger or not. haha. 


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Zach - That's not me!  But I got a few lefts like that one.  SO fun.  I'll send you a friend request.


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@mitchell Haha, no, I just meant on face book. I had your phone number WAY back in the day when you came out to San Diego like 15 years ago, but that phone is long gone. I always see your posts on FB because I am in the Surfing Ocean City group, but I clicked on a person who I "thought" was you and tried to friend request them. 

I was speaking on your identity on FB in real life, not the photo. Although that looks like an incredibly fun left! 

At any rate, it's funny because when MS went down, I was like damn, I really have no real world contact info for anyone outside the forum, we always communicate that way. But one of the few people, who's real name I knew was you. So I tried to find you on FB and sent you a friend request, but I looked at a few pictures from a person with your name, and for the life of me, I couldn't tell if it was you. One photo was like a full back tattoo, and although we wore wetsuits at Black's, I was just thinking, man, I don't know if this guy is the Mitch I am looking for.....

But at any rate, see if you have a random friend request from a dude named Zach, and that is me. It wouldn't allow me to DM you without being friends, and I didn't want to make some random public post about it. 

 


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ibc
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 ibc
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Mitchell, is that the board your buoys dropped on ya? 😏 I was hopin that was gonna turn out ok. 🤞 Glad you scored, bro. 😎🤙


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(@mitchell)
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@ibc That isn't me surfing.  I wish I was in that kind of shape.  I did ride the board yesterday that my buoys dropped on me, and it is SO perfect.  I've ridden it about 6 times now, and the last two times it really clicked.  I did one turn yesterday that sealed the deal - I LOVE it.  It is a 6'2" Jon Ashton battail quad.

1782947963-bt1.jpg

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(@chavezlikesboobs)
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After a few weeks of summer doldrums, we had a little quick small swell sneak in yesterday morning. 2.2 @10 seconds. Thigh to waist high. Water warming up nicely. Got on it early enough that it wasn’t too crowded. I’ll take it over working in this heat any day 


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ibc
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 ibc
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Great gnus, Mitchell.  That was cool as hell how dudes hooked you up.  Friends can do stuff. 😎🤙


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UnfUrled
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Swell cleaned up a bit. Some nice waist hi's rolled in. Went west of the Folly pier this time and it was practically longboard heaven. Got to go toes on the nose, switch the direction, tuck in under some peelers...everything was possible. Obv made for a great sunrise sess, catching me a bit by surprise. Kept the LB on the whip, planning on a beach day tomorrow. Unfortunately the Salute to Shore fly by doesn't bode well for the World Cup matches Saturday, plus it should flatten out all surfing hopes by then


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ibc
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 ibc
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I don't know if y'all remember or know what I'm talkin about with Mitchell's new board.  Don't wanna mess up the details, but...  I think someone was maybe in a low period in life... his bros not only notice, they're havin an idea... like Yahoo Serious in Young Einstein... they know him so well that they brainstorm out what they hope will be the perfect board... like when the dudes on Big Bang Theory hooked up Sheldon and Amy via online dating... Our Sheldon would say HOKUM (Raj's voice)...  At first it didn't seem like it was gonna work... but then... What have we done (Wolowitz voice)...  😲🤣

The rest, as they say, was history. 

That's hopefully kinda close.  😎🤙


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DawnPatrol321
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I scored some thumping waves at Seabass Inlet this morning on the 6'2" QK, and I had the place to myself for about an hour, then a couple of groms paddled out for few. Waves were a solid waist - chest and powerful, peaky, fast, some close outs, but lots of runners, mostly glassy clean conditions but not perfect, a little wonk and some backswash at times, with the incoming tide, but it worked out great for the most part. Haven't felt that kinda power in a while, soooo goooood!


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DawnPatrol321
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More fun at the Inlet this morning, I got there a little later than yesterday but still early, before the crowd, first one in the water, size still there, but the tide wasn't quite right yet, lots of clampers at first, nice and glassy though, and I found some runners here and there, after about an hour a little bit of a crowd formed around me, so I paddled up to the 1st / 2nd peak zone and had it to myself once again, got some nice runners there as well, then called it after about another hour. The traffic / crowd was on it's way in as I was leaving, so I timed it just right. Good to ride the QK two days in a row!


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