We probably had surf almost every day in June. I was basically goin 3 days in a row, coupla hours each, take a rest / do other stuff day, then repeat. It's just fizzled out today to end the month. I haven't been takin many pics lately.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ocpb4o2gGnk?is=4XSIelFXpauEUl4T
Today's news. We had surf for weeks. First day I can remember where we're actually sayin nope. Reckon it's somebody else's turn now. 😎🤙
I will look into why that youtube post didn't embed. I thought I had fixed that. Stand by.
Not sure if it matters, but that's a YouTube "short." Not a "video." It's funny I can post the same file both ways. The full width landscape video, or the portrait "short" with both sides chopped off. Shorts can get like a thousand views. Videos get 10. Same length. Go figger. 🤣
I haven't "body" surfed in a couple of weeks, been on a board, but when I did body surf, it was at the best damn shore pounding sandbar around, kinda heavy actually, was kinda surfable on a board, but would have been short rides with lots of death drops, but without a board you could jump into it, get down the line and back under the lip and out, or get shacked and take the pounding, had to watch out to not break my neck 🤣
Yup. Fun Rafael souvenir from a coupla years back. Came up bleedin a little from that bottom scrapin. Inside was nuking. My skull quit hurtin after a few days. 💥😎🤙
Not tryna be a pain, Zach. 😏 Instagram. Addin a screenshot, DP. It was rowdy inside, bro. Spray fest.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCKdPRkpfki/?igsh=MWpwd25tcXN4ZDY3aQ==
The frivolity and thumpage at the end can be the best part. It's gonna happen if you're rippin. You just try findin some way to maximize the fun. I usually got an arm out in front of me before I go under. Sometimes ya end up in the air and land on your feet. 😎🤙
I'm lucky we got mostly sand on the bottom. I couldn't do what I do on a reef or rocks. I hit the bottom pretty often some days. I'd probably end up like cleat to the cabeza dude then.
Man, I fuck around body surfing when I have no board on a beach day, but the last time I did a whole bodysurfing session was a few years back. We had a family reunion kinda deal where my grandmother rented a big ass beach house. One day, it was head high and perfect shore break. BIG shorebreak, light offshores. My Dad was there and he taught me how to body surf. So he and I are out there, shredding, probably the best rides I have ever had. You could stand in chest high water and time it and dive right into the pocket and fly.... It was the best ever, until my Dad took a wave, screamed and went under. I pulled him up and dragged him to the beach. Thinking he had a heart attack or some shit. Turns out he just tweaked his knee. But it was a ture, gnarly bodysurfing session. Best I can ever remember. The waves were perfect.
The energy definitely moved somewhere else. Might be the smallest buoy report this year so far. I'm still ok for a coupla days after a bountiful June.
Here ya go. When the boats start showin up, probably not a day to worry about leash knots.
Welp. It's just now tryna break outa flatness. The birds might actually start movin around in the water. Some folks are happy the water is gettin clear and blue. That's cuz it's a lake out here and the Mississippi mud is settlin to the bottom. It's really bein July.
It's marginally loggable and slowly growin. Might go swimmin after the little storm. It's been 90° and beyond with no rain this month, so no complaints from me. 😎🤙
Let's try this...
https://youtube.com/shorts/v8CU7XRpquw?is=bidqxqTqD3ufyfmo
Screenshot
Caught way more knee high waves than I expected. I expected maybe one, so that was easy. Haha.
Super crowded summer day. Managed to not run over anybody. Think it's been 2 weeks since my last day out, so this was very welcome. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙
Got home in time for Norway 🇧🇻.
Latest wild hair takeoff I stumbled upon... Several straight ahead waves yesterday that weren't slammers, but steep enough and crumblin down on top. Right when the wave gets to me, do a regular dive, arms full reachin out front, with my hands together like a scoop. Dig into the water, scoop it back to me, hands come apart as my arms end up by my sides in normal position. Then glide for a little bit just out front of the crumbles. I just started tryin this outa nowhere recently. It don't seem to really fit with many of my waves, but it did a few times yesterday. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙
I try splainin these things so it halfway makes sense. The best way to describe the scoopin was it felt like I pulled myself up onto the wave. Pulled that water out front of me so it went up under my stomach. Could feel the tug in my chest. Was a fun feelin. Haha
Closest swim stroke would be butterfly. Pullin the water back under yourself. Maybe I get to unofficial name it the Paulie stroke. Or just go generic like womp stroke, whatever. I just watched a dude swimmin the fly. Felt similar. Haha