I kinda knew that the gnar would be the most rowdy last night before dark. Also figgered it would be the cleanest early this mornin. Probably half the power and size. Wasn't gonna do both, so I picked yesterday's cardio fest. I was probably only out there less than 90min, but caught a shitload of sideways waves. I'd be out on the sandbar... here comes a set literally 30° angled from the beach. Take one of the early waves til that ended in the hole before the shorebreak. Come up and see a bunch more comin in, but gettin back out to where I was probably wasn't gonna happen fast enough. I'd eyeball the shorebreak. Shift over or in just a coupla steps and dive into some fun ones. End up in knee deep water gettin rolled. So, multiple waves per set, but not the normal way. I'd start out chest deep on the sandbar and end up sittin in knee deep water after my 2nd wave. Walk down the beach a block, go back out, and repeat. Between the current and the swell angle, you'd be pretty far down the beach after a coupla waves. 😎🤙
There's surf. The End. 😁
It ain't great, but it IS surf. Coupla hours of knee+ fun and frolic on the sandbar. I let a couple slip by that I yelled at me about afterwards. They didn't really shape up good til the very last second and I never jumped off the fence. No legendary waves. Plenty of ok waves. No more dusty Pablo. Came home, ate a big meal, and took a nap for an hour. I was posta make a speech at the United Nations, but blew that off. This was better. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙
Seemed noticeably lighter people wise in the water yesterday. Not sure how many schools are back in session, but it felt different. Pretty soon, we get to have summer for the locals. I think ya almost gotta go any time it's at least knee high in August. At least to remember how to catch waves. Stay dusted off. Looks like we still got some today. 😎🤙
More surprise August kneechoppe. Repeat of yesterday, except I stayed an extra hour today. 3 hours of Friday fun. Caught many average waves. Went home. Pigged out. Took a nap. TGIF. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙
Was way more fun than I expected. Even with the almost zero wind, it still had a little punch on the sandbar sometimes. Ima go out on a limb and say I squeezed myself into a few very brief micro barrells. I don't remember last time I could say that. And now it's 4:20. ☮️🌴🌊🐬🌊😎🤙
Looks like a little A-frame out there in the middle. Clean too. Hard to tell the size with nothing in the main frame for reference.
Holy cow. I just realized it's been since June that I took any water shots. Slow summer. I actually broke out the 3/2 springsuite for today's surf. Between the 10° temp drop and the steady rain, I figgered what the hey. I was prepared to stay a coupla hours. Ended up only a little over an hour. Felt perfect out there. Had the ocean to myself too.
Some dude cruised by on a e-foil.
















